Category Archives: sewing patterns

The Nicole Dress by Simple Sew Patterns

Sew, my second make as a blogger for Simple Sew is the Nicole Dress.

I liked the denim look that Simple Sew had made it in but as I have just finished making a blue denim dress I wanted to try a different look, and I had plans for a pattern hack.

 

simple sew Nicole Pattern

I love a dress with pockets, maybe its because I am a photographer I need some where to put bits!

 

 So I had a rummage through my fabric stash to see what I could make it in as I am on a mission to sew my stash this year. I have way to much fabric, not to be called a fabric collector now and although its great insulation for my home, I feel I need to free my pretties and get making beautiful things with them. I am going to write a post about my mission towards zero waste fashion at a later date – watch this blog for details.

 

 

 

These pretties were the finalists

My fabric choices for the Nicole dress by Simple Sew

But in the end I choose a pink stretch denim that my friend Rebecca of http://www.livingabstracts.com (check out her brilliant Instagram Course) gave me and the red floral cotton from http://www.fabricland.co.uk for the facing and pocket contrast.

As the fabric had a stretch to it I decided to make it a pull on dress, with big pockets – ideal for long haul flights as I have a couple coming up this year. Also I decided to make it a maxi dress which I am rather fond of for traveling when you are going from a cool climate to a hot one.

laying out the pattern for the Nicole dress

Here you can see how I decided to extend the length, and my cute new fabric donut weights from http://www.ohsewquaint.co.uk

 

I liked the fact that the pattern had some shaping to it even though it was a relaxed fit.

 

 

 

 

 

Trying to minimise waste – I often cutout 2 different patterns from the same fabric. Loving my donut weights.

Cutting facing for the Nicole Dress

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cutting interfacing

Time to make up the facing, by stitching the front to the back. I used a light weight interfacing as the facing was a light weight cotton.

I then joined it at the shoulder seams

I clipped the edges of the curves around the next before I turned it over

Making the darts: I put a pin through from the bust point to the other side of the fabric and then marked it with a pin.

Normally I would have put a tacking stitch in but this worked as a quick fix.

I started stitching the dart from the armhole and ended it by tying it off at the end.

I tried different designs for the pockets

And here she is Nicole in all her glory

I love this dress and would recommend the pattern, its quick to make and versatile. This version in stretch denim is perfect for the spring. I am going to make a mini one is cotton for later in the summer…watch this space.

Tiny little My Little Pony for My Little One

my Little One loves her My Little Ponies, so when I saw this fabric at the Knitting and stitching show I knew she would love it. Only problem was I was on a self inflicted fabric ban as I am trying to sew my fabric stash. I decided to buy only half a metre and see if I could find a childs dress pattern that only need this amount of fabric.

luckily I did find one from http://www.simplicitynewlook.com/simplicity-patterns new season. I made a design decision to replace the frill with pompoms and just managed to cut the whole dress from the half metre. The only bit I have over is going to make pockets so I do feel very happy I met my Zero waste fashion brief this time.

The dress is nearly finished just needs some straps  to finish it off. I did end up making it bigger than My Little One normally wears as I couldn’t face wasting the fabric…photo to follow

 

Jackie O Jacket from Simple Sew

This is my first make for the lovely people at Simple Sew patterns and I chose the fab Jackie O Jacket. Click here to have a look or buy the pattern Jackie O Jacket Pattern I initially chose it as I had bought some amazing 2 sided printed linen from Japan via Ebay and really liked the idea of using it for this pattern as the jacket is unlined and I thought it would be fun for it to have a different inside pattern.

2 sided linen fabric from Japan

I loved the fact that the pattern was printed on ‘normal’ paper not tissue, as I cut the largest size of the pattern, then trace off the size I am going to use and somehow no matter how careful I am the tissue ones never last as long.

The Instructions and diagrams were clear, which was a relief as some companies pattern instructions are not and rely on you having a lot of existing knowledge and experience of garment making.

I overlocked the facing to give it a neat edge
Ta da! here it is on, a light weight jacket ideal for spring and summer. Good alternative to a cardigan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I liked it so much I decided to make another one, this time I wanted to make a more formal more so pattern hacked it to make it longer. The fabric was from the utterly wonderful ABAKHAN I chose a boiled wool in charcoal, however i realised that it was going to need to be lined as the wool was brilliant for the jacket but a bit itchy for me to wear if I wasn’t wearing any sleeves under it.

Gorgeous wool in charcoal from Abakhan (see link above)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the lining I chose a lovely silky bird print from one of my favourite local fabric stores Fabrics Galore The print design reminded me of Ted Baker prints and I wanted the lining to have a bit of a colour pop about it, and this fabric was just right.

Cutting lining for the jacket

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I extended the length of the body by 4.5 inches and the sleeves by 2 inches as you can see below

Pattern hack, adding length to the Jackie O jacket

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A slight aside here, but I have a bit of thing about Zero Waste. So when I cut out a garment, I try I see how close I can get to either zero waste or what I could also cut from the remaining left over fabric. This time I decided to cut a matching jacket for my Little One who is 4yrs old. You can see her bodice ‘block’ in this photo (its the blue/green shape). I am happy to say I did manage to have enough fabric over to cut her a jacket. When I have made it up I will post some photos of it.

aiming for zero waste, by cutting out other garments with the left over fabric

To make the lining, I tired the bagging out method, without the facing. I wouldn’t recommend this and when I make the Jacket again I would cut the lining by tracing off the body, less the facing, then stitching the 2 together. This way I would get a more professional look, but I thought my way was going to look good and be quick, I was wrong on both counts!

I finished it with a fine black trim around the sleeves, neck, bodice front and hem line.

I am really happy with this version and will be making another Jackie O Jacket in the future.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

End of the Year Clean Up Surprise

I came across this beautiful pattern in my pattern stash whilst tiding up my sewing space to turn it back into a dinning room for the Christmas holidays.

Its on my list to make for 2017 but I am going to have to hunt high and low for the right fabric…I can feel another fabric shopping session on its way!

<img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-281" src="http://www.urbanseamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/T2eC16VHJHoE9n3Ke5nWBQQ1gP6oog60_57.jpg" alt="" width="579" height="1271" srcset="http://www.urbanseamstress actos 15 mg.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/T2eC16VHJHoE9n3Ke5nWBQQ1gP6oog60_57.jpg 579w, http://www.urbanseamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/T2eC16VHJHoE9n3Ke5nWBQQ1gP6oog60_57-137×300.jpg 137w, http://www.urbanseamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/T2eC16VHJHoE9n3Ke5nWBQQ1gP6oog60_57-466×1024.jpg 466w” sizes=”(max-width: 579px) 100vw, 579px” />

Dottie Angel with Cotton Reels

I loved the Simplicity dottie Angel dress I made last year with aeroplanes, but it came up a bit big, so I decided to make it again with this fantastic fabric from my favourite shop,  The Crafty Sewer Wimbledon Sewing Centre in Balham, London.

I made it a size smaller (a 12) and used pink and pale green chambray for the contrasts and all the bias binding.

Overall I am really happy with it, though next time I would make it even smaller, and I think its the perfect pattern for quirky prints though I think one made of different colours of denim will be my next make.

 

dottie angel cotton reel dress
dottie angel cotton reel dress
Come fly with me memory dress
Come fly with me memory dress

Unicorns and Rainbows for the Simplicity Sewing Challenge

I finished my working toile for the Simplicity Sewing Challenge 2016 using the Simplicity 1206. I decided not to make it up in the fabric I had in mind as I’m keeping it for Littles Ones 5th Birthday dress (See my other posts about the birthday dresses I make her) Its a hand embellished ribbon sewn on to a voile and its going to be perfect for the birthday dress big project.

This fabric is from the fabulous Fabric Land Brighton branch. The Little One choose it herself and loves wearing it. I made a matching shoulder purse for her (not pictured).

I found it quite straight forward, until I got to the yoke and sleeves which were a bit fiddly, as if you didn’t get the gathering right the armholes could end up to big.

I would make this again, with the overlay this time. Just need to find the right fabric for it.

<img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-207" src="http://www.urbanseamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/IMG_6720.jpg" alt="simplicity sewing challenge 2016" width="2296" height="2296" srcset="http://www.urbanseamstress look at here now.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/IMG_6720.jpg 2296w, http://www.urbanseamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/IMG_6720-150×150.jpg 150w, http://www.urbanseamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/IMG_6720-300×300.jpg 300w, http://www.urbanseamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/IMG_6720-768×768.jpg 768w, http://www.urbanseamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/IMG_6720-1024×1024.jpg 1024w” sizes=”(max-width: 2296px) 100vw, 2296px” />

 

Simplicity sewing challenge 2016
Simplicity sewing challenge 2016

Toile in progress for 1206 Simplicity

Achieving Zero Waste With Mummy and Me dressmaking?

I had been after this pattern which came free with an issue of Love Sewing Magazine, for so long! Its from SewGirl and I finally managed to get it second hand on ebay much to my excitement!

While I was in the process of laying it our for cutting I read a fascinating article on Zero Waste and how commercial sewing patterns create a shocking 46% WASTE of fabric!!! The article was by the owner of Story Book Patterns, Cassandra Macinedoe generic actos. It really got me thinking about what I could do to reduce my waste as a Seamstress and in life in general.

So I made  blocks for my Little One so that when I am cutting out, my clothes I automatically cut out something for her to help achieve the holy grail of zero waste.

Im not totally happy with my tunic. Im 5ft 2 and a size 8-10 so the sleeves totally drowned me. I have cut off the extra section of sleeves and it looks much better on and the extra I removed, I turned the top into a dress. I will post more photos of these two when I am finished.

Trying to achieve zero waste when cutting out clothes patterns
Trying to achieve zero waste when cutting out clothes patterns

Summer Time Surprise Skirt

I have had this pattern for a while when I found this fabric at the fantastic <a href="http://www actos medication.farbicsgalore.co.uk”>http://www.farbicsgalore.co.uk on Lavender Hill, near Clapham, London. Some times when I buy a pattern I can only see it being made in the fabric in the photo, and this Simplicity 1695 was no exception!

What surprised me about this pattern, was the underskirt, as its not marked on the pattern envelope front or back!! Its not till you start reading the instruction you find its there. Actually had I know it was there I would have made the skirt before now as I had it in my head that it was only suitable for beach wear in such a floaty see through fabric.

When I cut it out I forgot to cut 2 of the underskirt so had to put a medium large split at the back of it so that I could walk! I had used the rest of the fabric to make a halter neck top the year before, so need to take drastic action. Sadly the free pattern that I used from a leading sewing magazine had not been drafted well…unless you had a child size neck on an adult body. Anyway I am now self drafting a new halter neck top for next year to wear with it.

I am also going to try making it again with some gorgeous black silk, with torn bits effect (sorry no idea what the technical term is for that) from Jigsaw, for a christmas party skirt, maybe even make a strapless bodice with it.

 

Summer Skirt