Category Archives: marking darts on fabric

Veronika The Big Red Dress

In all the years that I have been making clothes, sewing and crafting, I have never made myself a party dress. I make an extravagant birthday occasion dress every year for my 5-year-old so I am no stranger to the dramas of working with slippery, fragile and fine fabrics, so I decided it was time for some selfish sewing.

I was inspired by the name of Simple Sew Patterns Veronika Dress and decided she was going to be a red silk beauty. I couldn’t believe luck that the fabulous people at doughtys had exactly the colour I needed, click the link to buy the same gorgeous fabric.

Veronika pattern from Simple sew patterns, and red silk dupioni from Doughty on line

They were very generous and gave me the material to make this dress. The pattern said 2.7 meters was needed but I managed to cut it out of 2m, so will have some over to make The Little One a party dress from the remnants. I aim to practice a zero waste system in my dressmaking, so no scraps will go wasted from this fabric. The larger ones will be used for a dress for my daughter and the small ones go to her old nursery school for crafting and anything left over is made into dolls clothes.

So on to the layout and cutting…it was so lovely to cut into, very satisfying, my favourite part of creating is cutting the fabric, I have no idea why I like it so sew much.

 

laying out the pattern pieces

I take ages doing this part as I am trying to aim for zero waste.

First I cut the skirt, look at the fullness of this skirt, so exciting.

placing and pinning the skirt sections in place

Wow this skirt is going to be great for dancing in!

I then cut the front bodice and tacked the bust point (you can just about see the black cotton. I then pinned the darts. I did this so I could try it on again to see if any further adjustments were needed. I did a very brief pattern fit, eg I pinned the darts on the pattern and tried on the bodice front and back to see if the fit was ok before I selected the size I needed.

pinning and tacking the front bodice darts

I know I should pin the other way, ie pins at 90 degrees, but as I mentioned I wanted to try it on for fine tuning the fit.

front bodice with darts pinned

Heres what she looked liked from the right side

 

 

bodice front with bust and waist darts pinned

I decided I wanted to use the silk as the lining rather than use cotton or a poly satin. I recently made a dress for the royal wedding sew along and I also used silk dupioni and a cotton lawn for the lining, however, I didn’t like the finish, so decided to self-line this time.

 

attaching the back facing of the bodice to the shoulders of the front facing

I attached the front and back facings at the shoulders.

Then I pinned the facing to the bodice

Stitching the join

joining the side seams

Attaching the waist band to the bodice.

Loving the V neck shaping, will need to get some bra stays so the bra won’t show.

The exciting bit attaching the bodice to the skirt.

…and here she is Veronika, the red dress, Gorgeous. Still hemming and pressing to go. More photos of her in the wild to follow. I have also ordered a big red petticoat to complete the look.

 

Making the Raglan Dress for the Dressmakers Ball

My latest make for  https://www.simplesewpatterns.com is the Raglan Dress. This dress was themed for the DressMakers Ball in Leicester, which I couldn’t go to but I know I will get loads of wear out of this dress, especially at Christmas!

This dress can be made in jersey or woven and I chose woven, as I decide I wanted to make a statement with the sleeves. I have this amazing fabric in my stash from http://www.craftysewer.com Its silk, cut into small pieces and stitched in rows on to the base fabric. I love it but was sturuggling to find the right pattern for it but this one was perfect. Here the link to it on Simple Sew Patterns Website https://www.simplesewpatterns.com/products/the-raglan-dress

I bought the black crepe from https://www.fabricsgalore.co.uk

I love the zero waste challenge when cutting out so had a few goes at positioning the pattern peices

cutting out the batwing dress aiming for zero waste

Next up was to mark the darts, first I pinned, then used chalk pen to drawn them on the fabric before I tacked them.

 

Drawing the darts, they do look a lot wonkier than they actually were in this photo!

Here I have tacked the darts – sorry for the poor photo, black is really hard to photograph!!

tacking the darts

Bust and front of dress darts tacked.

Cutting the sleeves out was a slow process as the silk chiffon was not that easy to work with as it was really mobile. I found it easier when I used my weights and silk pins (longer and thinner than normal ones)

I then pinned the sleeves together…and I can’t wait to see what it looks like so ….

Had to pin it on my dummy Flossie to have a sneak peek, does anyone else do that?

Only stitched at the shoulders

seeing what the sleeves look like
seeing what the sleeves look like part 2

 

raglan dress from simple sew patterns

So back off Flossie and now time to cut the facing for the neck. I used a light weight interfacing and joined the 2 parts to make a circle.

cutting the facing for the neck

Next I pinned the sides from hem to cuff and pinned the facing around the neck (leave the facing off if you are using jersey material)

pinning up the sides

Back on to Flossie and I am really happy with how its looking…in need of a good press now

sides stitched up and sleeve in

I left the fabric to drop over night before I pinned the hem.

allowing hem to drop

Here she is, rather hard to photograph, so used my selfie stick for the first time!

Raglan Dress with statement sleeves made by @urbanseamstress

I took out the darts on the front and back as the fabric hung better that way  and I think it needs to be taken in a bit, but am really happy with it.